Wally 120 Build Log
http://pad.constantvzw.org/public_pad/open%20knit#
Conventions used in this log:
*Normal fonts: for all text from original Wally instructions
*Italic fonts: for all comments and status info that we have added/
The full instructions are available on instructables.com:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-the-Open-Knit-machine/?ALLSTEPS
The details, code, design files etc. are available at github:
https://github.com/g3rard/OpenKnit/tree/master/Wally120/
Parts status:
Printed and Cut parts:
*OK: laser cut plexiglass parts
*OK???: 3D printed parts
Mechanical parts:
*Ordered: Two 800x3 mm aluminum strips
*Ordered: Two 800x2 mm aluminum strips
*Ordered: Two 30x30x162 mm aluminum bars
*Ordered: Two 30x30x300 mm aluminum bars
*Ordered: Two 20x20x800 mm aluminum bars
*Ordered: Two 30x30x800 mm aluminum bars*Ordered: Two 15x15x800 mm aluminum T-profile
*OK: One Arduino Leonardo
*OK: One micro interruptor
*OK: One rotary encoder (slightly different model than spec)
*OK: One axial bearing
*OK: One stepper motor
*OK: One timing pulley (2 purchased)
*Six threaded rods, sizes: 2x16 2x17 and 2x22 mm
*OK: 120 Knitmaster empisal silver knitting machine needles
*OK: Four servo motors (6 purchased)
*OK: Four servo motor driver
*OK: One timing belt
*16 v-groove bearings
*One block of paraffine
*OK: One bag Molex c-grid plastic holders: 4-pin, 3-pin and 2-pin
*OK: One bag Molex c-grid female pins
*OK: Phone cable on a reel (5 meter minimum)
*120 paperclips 32 mm type N.2
*One piano hinge 510 mm
*Two wooden strips: flat on one side, a hole every 60 mm
*OK: One rass rod 1.5 mm
*OK: A bag of pin headers, male and female
*OK: One terminal block
*OK: One switching power supply
*One cross-shaped bead
Bolts and nuts, in generous amounts
*M3 tapered 7 mm
*M3 tapered 10 mm
*M3 tapered 12 mm
*M3 tapered 16 mm
*M3 tapered 20 mm
*M3 tapered 30 mm
*M3 flat head 8 mm
*M3 flat head 10 mm
*M3 flat head 12 mm
*M3 flat head 16 mm
*M3 flat head 20 mm
*M3 flat head 30 mm
*M3 regular nuts
*M3 nylock
*M3 washers
*M8 nuts and bolts (only a few)
*M8 washers (only a few)
Extra tools missing:
- M3x30 countersink
- Small Tyrap (colson)
- screw - diam 3 mm and 8mm long
screws m3 160 mm longeur
Assembly:
Steps 1,2,3: Description, Parts, Tools
See above.
Step 4: Thread the aluminum profiles
You'll need to thread:
*two 20x20x800 mm bars: 6 mm tool on both sides.
*two 30x30x800 mm bars: 8 mm tool on both sides.
*two 30x30x162 mm bars: 8 mm tool on ONE side, plus one 8 mm hole on the top (see image).
Step 5: Prepare the aluminum strips and T-barsCOMPLETED 2015 02 25
Make holes, and sink them with a countersink tool so the bolts will not stick out.
Flat strips
Make a hole at 50, 225, 400, 575, 750 mm.
T-shaped bar:
Make holes at 14, 142, 271, 392, 410, 529, 657, 787 mm.
Place profile next to the acrylic to mark the exact place where the holes are going to be, this MUST be precise.
Step 6: Assemble the structural bars -completed 2015 02 25 apart from 1 hole that needs to be done on aluminium profile ( no identification found where to place exactly the hole..)
You need:
20 x 20 profiles
20 mm aluminum strips
3D printed squares (8x8 mm): '2020 nuts'
threaded nuts
M3 x 7 bolts
Prepare the 2020 nuts:
You need the 3D printed squares (8x8 mm) and threaded nuts, five per strip. Place the nuts into the 3D printed parts.
Slide the nuts into the profile bar
See picture. Align the nuts with the holes in the aluminum strip.
Close the top of the bar
Using the M3 bolts.
Repeat on the bottom
Slide in five 2020 nuts, close the assembly with an aluminum strip.
Repeat this procedure with the other 2020 profile bar
Step 7: Bend the paperclips
Bend the paperclips as indicated in the image. The 'hook' on the right is the end result. You'll need 60 of them, have fun bending!
Step 8: Prepare the wooden strips
The wooden strips will be part of the comb. For this part you need:
Two half -rounded wooden strips, a hole every 60 mm and lines every 15 mm
60 paperclips
Long flat hinge
M3 bolts and nuts, 12 mm
Preparation
File small slide at the indicated lines.
Place the clips inside the slids. 30 per bar.
Take a look at the pictures how to position the 'hooks'.
Step 9: Assemble the comb
Attach the hinge to the flat sides of the wooden pieces as indicated in the images. When the hinge opens, the hooks cross each other.
Step 10: Prepare the acrylic parts - 1 hour, complete 2015 02 14
Place the acrylic parts in front of you on a table as indicated. be careful as they are not all the same size! Align them carefully as on the picture (some are smaller in size..)
Make four piles of three layers each: see following step.
Step 11: Prepare layer (A)2 - completed 2015 02 18
Start with pile A. Take layer A1 off
In layer A2, sink three holes, indicated in RED. Then later, the bolts will not stick out.
We hole sinked each 3 holes on A1, B1,D1,C1 (instead of A2)
Step 12: Assemble the acrylic layers - 1 completed 2015 02 18
Place nuts into the 4 pockets in A2.
Place 120 needles in the openings.
Repeat for pile B, C and D.
Step 13: Assemble the acrylic layers - 2 completed 2015 02 18
Place layers (A, B, C, D )1 back on top, get 8 rounded bolts M3 x 12.
Screw the layers together.
Strange issue as on the C & D and A & B parts each of them have holes not placed on top of each other (all the other holes are on top..)
This is apparently the holes where the legs will be fitted (step 38).
I left the tape and marks for now - to be removed before definitive screwing!
Step 14: Attach the T-shaped bar - COMPLETED 2015 02 25
Attach the T-shape profile to the bottoms of A 1-3 and B1-3.
First loosely, if it al fits thighten all bolts.
(in the NON threaded 2020 profiles).
x16 need M3 10 bolts!!! made by hand
Step 16: Fix the acrylic on top of the structural bar - COMPLETED 2015 02 25
Sink holes, and place bolts & nuts through acrylic into the nuts.
Use 8 x M3x14 countersink bolts.
Also fix piles B, C and D to the T shape and structural bar.
M3 x 7 bolts fraisé made by hand
Step 17: Placing the 'encoder rack' half completed - missing x3 3d printed encoder racks
First place the ‘encoder_rack’ pieces along the bar.
Leave 50 mm on each side.
Press the piece into the bar
Take the “top_plate_bearings” part + 4 bearings and attach them as indicated.
Step 18: Assemble the “top_plate_bearings” part - 30 mins, not complete
Take the “top_plate_bearings” part + 4 bearings and attach them as indicated.
This part does not quite fit into the top carriage part:
*The "wings" are too tight and need to be filed down to fit the top carriage without forcing and deforming the part.
Step 19: Prepare the top of the carriage part
Take the “top_plate” part.
Place a nut into the hole.
Catch the nut with the screw.
Pull the nut down, take screw out.
Now the nut is 'seeded'.
Step 20: Place the rotary encoder VVV - 2 hours, nearly complete
Place the rotary encoder with the pins straight, cut the legs.
Slide it in, careful with the pins.
This may require more work:
*The rotary encoder could not fit and the hole had to be adjusted.
*The rotary encoder mounting must be adjusted to so that the gear runs smotthly along the rack.
Step 21: Assemble “top_plate_bearings” part with “top_plate” part
Take five long M3x12 countersink bolts.
Attach the two parts firmly.
Step 22: Add the gear
Once the screws are all attached, place the “encoder_pinion” on the rotary encoder.
Step 23: Prepare a servomotor VVV - 30 mins. complete 2015 02 14
Use the “top_plate_servo_mount”, place the servo in - be careful not to loose the tiny servo bolt that comes with the motor.
Make sure the arm does the movement indicated in green.
*Servo arm movement is not exactly as per green arrow since the servo only has 90° of movement. This may require adjustment at a later stage
Attach the tiny screw.
Put M3 x 16 bolts through holder and motor to fixate them.
*M2 bolts were used, the bolt on the side with the servo wires was cut to prevent damage to the wires
Step 24: Place the servo on the top plate
Attach the servo on top with 3 bolts.
Step 25: Prepare the main carriage
These are the parts you need.
Each hole corresponds to a letter.
Step 26: Attach the N-mount part
Place M8 nut into the “N_mount”.
Position it with the “carriage” part and a bearing.
Attach the long end with a bolt.
Step 27: Add another bearing
Use M3x16 30mm countersink bolt and nylock nut to attach the bearing. - Completed
Step 28: Place “servo_mount_carriage” parts
You'll need 2 x M3x30 countersink bolts to place the servo mount carriage parts.
Missing M3 X 30 countersink bolts!
Step 29: Prepare the servo motor Half ZZZ - Reposition motor - 30 mins. complete 2015 02 14
Picture of Prepare the servo motor
Position the ‘wings’ of the servo motor like this and fix with the tiny screw from the package. File its holes on both sides of the black plastic, they need to be a bit wider. Make sure the arm moves as indicated in green.
*Again, the servo arm movement is aprroximately as per the green arrows, but the 90° movement may require adjustment at a later stage.
*2 of these were produced
Step 30: Make the 'servo beam mount' - 5 minutes, complete 2015 02 14
Take the 3D printed 'servo beam mount' part.
Bend the pin.
Slide the pin into the part.
Position it over the servo motor wings.
Tie the pieces together.
*2 of these were produced
Step 31: Attach the motor to the carriage
Using long M3 bolts and nuts.
Step 32: Assemble the slider part
Take the white acrylic 'slider' square.
Position it on the pin.
Place it in the slid as indicated in the image. Now it should be able to slide.
Attach the 3D printed 'slider guide' on top with M3 cross bolts.
Step 33: Prepare the SLED mechanism
Use two M3 x 12 bolts.
To place the 'sled mount' on the carriage.
Take 'sled', 'sled arms' and a servo motor, plus a bended paperclip.
Make sure the arm of the servo can move as indicated with the green arrow in the picture.
Step 34: Attach the motor
Screw the motor to the sled mechanism using an M3 x 16 bolt.
Slide the long M3x35 bolt through the hole.
Step 35: Add arms
Now slide two of the arms over the 35mm bolt towards the motor. Finish it with a nut with nylon, allowing the arms to turn freely.
Step 36: Almost done with the carriage...
At the top side of the arms, attach the bright green part, using a nut with nylon again. The sled should move freely.
Pull the paper clip though the wing of the motor and the bright green part and bend it to fix it, as shown in the picture.
Now you have finished your first carriage piece! There is two of them, so one more to go...
Step 37: Make the 'legs' of the machine
Take the four leg parts, place the nut with the help of the bolt.
Place them underneath the acrylic assembly.
Slide in the 'space invader'.
Step 38: Place the 3030 profiles
Take the 30 x 30 x 800 mm aluminum bars. Carefully slide the '3030' in, holding the 'leg' parts straight.
Do it really slowly slowly while holding the other 'leg' parts straight.
Step 39: Place the short aluminum profiles
You need the 320 mm long profiles, 4 M8 washers and M8 x 50 bolts.
Place the profiles carefully on the side of the machine, don't tighten them all the way.
Then get the clamps. It is recommended to have 2 people for this task: clamping the machine on the table.
Step 40: Place the vertical short bars
You'll need the 164 mm short aluminum bars, 2 M8 x 50 bolts and M8 washers.
Place the bar as indicated in the picture. Put it so the holes on the side are at the top on the outside.
Step 41: Prepare the yarn carrier
You need the yarn carrier part, 4 M3 nylon nuts, 4 M3x12 countersink bolts and 4 bearings, a cross shaped bead and a tie wrap.
Narrow the tie if yours is too thick.
Tighten the nut without blocking the bearing.
Smooth the cross shaped beads so the thread can move through easily.
Snap the cross in, and use the zip tie carefully.
Step 42: Bring the yarn carrier in position
You'll need the 30x30 structural bar 'sandwich', the yarn carrier, two M6 wide washers, and two M6x50 bolts.
Slide the yarn carrier over the length of the bar. Attach the bar horizontally between the vertical short aluminum profiles. Put the bolts all the way in but do not tighten them yet.
// be careffull as not so clear: the flat aluminum bar should be placed on the BACK side of the machine screwed on the aluminium profile. This so you can use it as a rail for theyarn carrier.
Step 43: Place the 'L_2020-3030' parts done 2015 03 02
Take the two parts called L_2020-3030. Slide them carefully down into both the vertical profiles.
Step 44: Bring the encoder rack into position done 2015 03 02
You'll need the 20x20x800 mm bar with the encoder rack inside, two of the 'L_2020-3030' parts, two M6 wide washers and two M6x50 bolts.
Place the orange part inside between the profile and the rail and slide it into the 3030 profile 164 mm from both sides simultaneously.
Put the bolts through but do not tighten yet.
Step 45: Place the carriages
Take the carriage and prepare the bolt with the bearing for later.
Insert the carriage into the rail carefully and put it in place. Carefully insert the M3x20 bolt as indicated in the third image. The bolt should go all the way in.
Step 46: Place the top carriage
You'll need the six threaded rods, 22 x M8 nuts, 18 x M8 washers, and the top carriage.
Insert the top carriage assembly, the bearings of the top carriage fit on the bottom of the rail.
Step 47: Place nuts for the rods
Insert the nuts in the carriage holes, lifting the carriage a little bit. Place one nut in both sides of each carriage.
Step 48: Place the rods
Start on the left. Then put the middle one (165mm), and finally the right one (155mm). Tighten the three rods in the bottom trapped nuts.
Step 49: Place nuts on top of the rods
Do not tighten them all the way yet.
Step 50: Insert the 'teeth'
Insert each set of “teeth” from the bottom. You can snap them in place.
Then you'll need 18 x M3x8 bolts and 18 M3 nuts. First insert all the bolts, then fix them with the nuts.
Step 51: Prepare the bearing for the motor VVV
Take “bearing608_mount” and fit a 608 bearing in. Take “3030nut” and place a nut inside. Put all the parts together as indicated in the image, then slide it into the vertical (short) profile).
Step 52: Assemble the stepper motor holder
Take “stepper_mount” and the stepper motor. Tight the stepper mount on top of the motor. Take the pulley and 2 M3 x 8 bolts. Insert the bolts as indicated in the third image. Take two “3030nut” and place the nuts in. You'll need this for the next step.
Step 53: Place the stepper motor
First insert the nuts in the profile and then catch them with the bolt.
Step 54: Attach the back side of the motor.
Take “stepper_mount_back” and two “3030nut” parts, with nuts inserted. Repeat the process on the other side.
Step 55: Attach the Arduino Done 215 03 02
Use the part 'Arduino_mount', and two “3030nut” in which you insert nuts.
On the horizontal bar that is attached to the table, attach the Arduino mount. Place the Arduino with a couple of bolts.
Step 56: Build the Arduino shield
Solder all the parts as indicated.
Step 57: Place the Arduino shield
Plug it on top of the Arduino. Connect the 4 cables from the power supply: GND, 5V, 12V, and GND.
Step 58: Connect the Arduino shield
Connect the rest of the cables as in the image: 4 servomotors, 1 encoder, 1 endstop and 1 stepper.
Step 59: Prepare the tensor - side 1
Bend a wire like in the picture and fix it with the two “tensor_head” parts on one side of the tensor. You need two M3x16 bolts and nuts.
Step 60: Prepare the tensor - side 2 done 27/02/15
On the other side of the tensor, use 2 x M3x12 bolts and M3 nuts, the 'tensor_table_Top' and the 'tensor_table_wax'. Put them together as shown in the images.
Then add the 'wax_holder' with M3x12 bolts and nuts.
Step 61: Prepare the paraffin block
You'll need a block of paraffin (or wax), the assembly you just made and a tie-wrap.
Pull the tie-wrap around the paraffin block.
Take the piece called “tensor_table_bottom” and place it at the end of the tensor.
Step 62: Clamp the paraffin block
Put the table in between the two flat pieces. Clamp the assembly to the table close to the knitting machine.
Step 63: Thread the machine - part 1
Well done, we can finally start threading!
Place the yarn on the floor, the first step is to pull it up through the paraffin donut. Then it goes through the carrier. Use a wire to pull the thread through the cross shaped bead.
Then, pass the yarn carrier in between the threaded rods. (image 4) and place the yarn carrier in the rail. Unscrew the top 2 bolts if needed (image 5). It should look like image 6.
Pass the thread through the two needle beds. Pull it carefully downwards. Attach it somewhere, for example at the clamps that hold the machine to the table.
Step 64: Thread the machine - part 2
Pull the wire up through the eye of the top part of the tensor.
Cut a piece of wire of 200 mm. Bend it to make an 'eye', use an M8 rod to help you get it in the right shape.
Unscrew the nut of the left threaded rod and place the bended wire. Put the nut back in place and tighten it.
Pull the thread of yarn up, and bend the tip of the wire into an 'eye' as shown in the picture.
Pass the thread through the eye. The threading is done, and you have finished the building part of making the Open Knit Machine!!!
Step 65: Wiring the motors
The motors have to be connected to the Arduino board. Wire them up as shown in the schedule and the images.
For this and following steps: it is wise to bundle the wires together in tubes.
Step 66: Connecting the power supply
The images show how to connect the cables coming from power supply to the Arduino.
For powering the machine we are using a regular computer power supply, cheap and easy to find. In order to turn it on we have to cut and connect the green and a black cable together from the 20 pin Molex connector.
Then grab any 4 pin Molex connector with red, black, black and yellow cables (5V, ground, ground, 12V) and cut them and connect them to the shield like in the image.
Step 67: Organizing the wires
Make sure the wires will not be in the way when the carriage is moving
Step 68: Calibrating the servo motors
First you need to calibrate the servos.
Arduino code
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Misc Notes:
*acheter les pièces : la liste est longue, il y a de l'électronique, la mécanique, du knitting, du bois. Il faut trouver où les acheter, puis commander puis attendre l'arrivée. Si c'est sur Internet (où on trouvera le moins cher), il faut 2 à 5 semaines!!! sinon, je ne sais pas où trouver toute ces pièces sur Bruxelles. N'oublie pas de commander des outils en même temps
*thread 12 holes in the aluminum profiles : 30 minutes, mais il faut prévoir des erreurs, de la casse des tarauds, et la destruction de profiles par fausse manip, de l'entrainement à tarauder aiderait!
*drill the alu strips/bars: 30 minutes ou plus, encore du rab à prévoir pour compenser des erreurs...
*assemble alu strips: 15 minutes, si les pièces 3D printed sont ok!!!
*60 paper clips!!! 20 minutes! prévoir beaucoup d'extras!
*assembles le comb: wow, ça a l'aire dûr: 2 heurs ou plus la première fois... encore faut prévoir des erreurs...
*assemble acrylique parts (steps 10-16) 4 heures ou plus! Il faut absolument avoir un déjà fait pour modèle sinon, les tâtonnements vont prendre longtemps!! et les erreurs ...
*encoder rack: 10 minutes, si tout va bien!
*top bearing: 10 minutes
*top carriage: 5 minutes si tout va bien, mais beaucoup plus s'il faut "ajuster" la pièce 3Dprinted...
*place rotary encoder: 5 minutes ou plus si ajustements
*assemble top bearing et rotary encoder et gear: 15 minutes (plus ajustements)
*servo: 30 minutes (IL VOUS FAUT un SERVO TESTER pour mettre le servo en position neutre et tester sa course, ainsi qu'une source de 5v avec la prise type "servo JR" (un ESC d'avion radio guidé, plus une batterie lipo par ex - ceci n'est pas indiqué dans les instructions!)
*main carriage: 1 hour
*next servo + slider : 30 mins peut-être 1 heure la première fois!
*servo + sled: 1 heure
*legs: 15 mins
*3030 profiles : 30 - 60 mins
*short profiles + clamps + vertical short bars : 15 minutes
*construire et positionner yarn carrier: 45 minutes
*L202-3030+encoder rack: 15 minutes
*carriages (steps 45-50) 90 minutes!!!
*motor (steps 51-54): 45 minutes
*arduino: 15 minutes
*souder arduino shield: 30 minutes pour qq'un qui sait souder! bien plus pour un débutant (vous pouvez les faire faire avant le workshop!)
*poser shield et connexions : 30 minutes
*tensor + parrafin + threading!! (steps 59-64) 1 hour
*wiring (steps 65-67): cela dépend des connecteurs que tu as, s'ils sont déjà attachés aux fils ou pas... minimum 30 minutes, maximum??? 2 heures s'il faut fabriquer tous les connecteurs!
*calibrate servos!!! Oh là là! tu sais que ça peut prendre du temps! 1 heure??
*Get the Knitting Code to run (steps 69-71): 15 minutes minimum, 10 ans max ;-)
*Si on fait la somme de tout, sans compter le temps de chercher, commander et recevoir et/ou fabriquer toutes les pièces : +/- 20 personne-heures!!! Bien sûre, on peut trouver des activités qu'on peut faire en parallèle!!!